Installation of bevel siding.
The minimum lap for bevel siding should not be less than 1 inch. The average exposure distance is usually determined by the distance from the underside of the window sill to the top of the drip cap.
From the standpoint of weather resistance and appearance, the butt edge of the first course of siding should coincide with the top of the window drip cap. In many one-story houses with an overhang, this course of siding is often replaced with a frieze board.
It is also desirable that the bottom of a siding course be
flush with the underside of the window sill. However, this may not always
be possible because of varying window heights and types that might be
used in a house.
When this system is not satisfactory because of big differences in the two areas, it is preferable to use an equal exposure distance for the entire wall height and notch the siding at the window sill. The fit should be tight to prevent moisture entry.
Siding may be installed starting with the bottom course. It is normally blocked out with a starting strip the same thickness as the top of the siding board.
Each succeeding course overlaps the upper edge of the lower course. Siding should be nailed to each stud or on 16-inch centers. When plywood or wood sheathing or spaced wood nailing strips are used on nonwood sheathing, sevenpenny or eightpenny nails (2 1/4 and 2 1/2 in. long) may be used for 3/4-inch-thick siding.
However, if gypsum or fiberboard sheathing is used, the tenpenny nail is recommended to penetrate the stud. For 1/2-inch thick siding, nails may be 1/4 inch shorter than those used for 3/4-inch siding.
The nails should be located far enough up from the butt to miss the
top of the lower course of siding. This clearance distance is usually
1/8-inch. This allows for slight movement of the siding due to moisture
changes without causing splitting. Such an allowance is especially required
for the wider sidings of 8 to 12 inches wide.
should be square-cut to provide a good joint at window and door casings
and at butt joints. Open joints permit moisture to enter, often leading
to paint deterioration. It is good practice to brush or dip fresh-cut
ends of the siding in a water-repellent preservative before boards are
nailed in place.
A mitered corner effect on horizontal siding or the use of corner boards are perhaps the most common methods of treatment.
Mitering corners of bevel and similar sidings, unless carefully done to prevent openings, is not always satisfactory. To maintain a good joint, it is necessary that the joint fit tightly the full depth of the miter. It also is good practice to treat the ends with water-repellent preservative prior to nailing.
Metal corners are perhaps more commonly used than the mitered corner
and give a mitered effect. They are easily placed over each corner as
the siding is installed. The metal corners should fit tightly without
openings and be nailed on each side to the sheathing or corner stud
beneath. If made of galvanized iron, they should be cleaned with a mild
acid wash and primed with a metal primer before the house is painted
to prevent early peeling of the paint. Weathering of the metal also
will prepare it for the prime paint coat.
When siding returns against a roof surface — such as at a dormer
— there should be a clearance of about 2 inches. Siding cut tight
against the shingles retains moisture after rains and usually results
in peeling paint. Shingle flashing extending well up on the dormer wall
will provide the necessary resistance to entry of wind-driven rain.
Here again, a water-repellant preservative should be used on the ends
of the siding at the roofline.